After a great day and fun night out in Fukuoka, I head southwest by local train and arrive in Kumamoto by mid-morning. It was a city I had not known much about, but after stepping out of the station it is clear that it brims with a classic charm. I took a streetcar from the very modern Kumamoto Station, situated on the eastern edge of the city, to the center to see Kumamoto Castle.
I cross a moat, enter its gates and hike through a series of stone walls to get to the main keep. From the top of the castle you can see the city below stretching out until it reaches the surrounding mountains on all four sides.
As I sat enjoying the view, I overheard a couple of middle school aged students talking a bit loudly. They ended up being more informative than I had expected as I learned that the reason Kumamoto Station was so far removed was because the castle was the center of the town in feudal days. The station had to be put on the edge of town as a result of trains coming around much later. That makes sense and gives some insight on how a feudal city adapts to the changing times.
After descending the castle, I head into the main shopping center of town in search of the meibutsu of Kumamoto, which also happens to be a type of tonkotsu ramen, this time topped with roasted garlic. The noodles are much thicker than Hakata style, almost as thick as spaghetti. As with many other places famous for ramen there are several competing shops in the area serving the same style of Kumamoto ramen. I went for Komurasaki which has a shop located in the covered shopping area overlooked by the castle.
After leaving Komurasaki and finding a long line that wasn’t there when I arrived, I made my way to the one other place I wanted to visit in Kumamoto City before I left, Suizen-ji Joju-en. I hopped on a tram again and got off at the Suizen-ji Koen stop, appropriately named for the large park it services.
Leading up to the entrance of the park is a stone torii gate followed by a line of local souvenir and sweets shops. Waiting on the other side of this is the most beautiful Japanese garden I’ve ever been to. It is complete with pond, stone walkways, bridges, a shrine and a hill sculpted into the shape of Mt. Fuji. Several benches offer a place to rest and gaze at the view for a break.
I left Kumamoto by a one-car train to go to the small onsen town, Hitoyoshi, where I would be staying that night. The town is about two hours south of Kumamoto City, but still in the same prefecture. The train ride itself is a beautiful trip as it meanders through valleys following a river. Bend after bend mountains pass revealing gorgeous sights in a perfect golden hour.
I arrive in Hitoyoshi just as the sun is going down, I check into my ryokan for the night and ask about the local onsens and restaurants. Onsen is the Japanese word for hot spring, which are a very common way to relax at most destinations in Japan. Older resort towns like Hitoyoshi are well known for hot springs and feature many Japanese style inns. Staying at one of these inns is the destination. Families, groups, couples or friends travel from all over to bathe in the hot springs, dress in yukata and eat always delicious food served right in their rooms. The Japanese know how to relax.
After a bath at a local onsen, I go out for dinner at a 100 year old shop that specializes in unagi (grilled eel). This unagi is served on rice, which would be referred to as unagi-don, but when a decadent amount of grilled eel is used it is called unagi-ju. The unagi-ju is served in a decorated black and red box with soup and pickles on the side. Opening the lid of the box reveals lightly charred unagi topped with sesame seeds and a sweet sauce.
I leave the doors of the 100 year old shop and wander the dark streets lit only by lanterns and the awnings of quaint local eateries. I walk past a shrine that is already closed, then walk up and down each side of the river that separates the town. Ryokan lights are the only thing that light up the river. It’s quiet, so I head back to my own tatami room for the night.
Hitoyoshi is not a destination to go and do something, but it is a great destination to go do nothing. It’s a place to step back in time and unwind. It was a peaceful relaxing stop on my journey around Kyushu.
2 thoughts on “Kumamoto”
Great post! I feel like I’m visiting again, but with more detail
Great blog! Can’t wait to see more. I’m visiting Japan vicariously through your post Some!
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