Next stop around Kyushu is Kagoshima, the southernmost prefecture of the four main islands of Japan. I made my way there through mountains from Hitoyoshi, many times the lone passenger of a one car train.
I had no idea what to expect from this next stop on my journey around the island. As I approached Kagoshima City the trains became longer and more crowded. Stepping off the platform and through the gates of Kagoshima Station, I was instantly hit by its character. Like Kumamoto City, tram lines run down the center of its main streets, leading to covered shopping areas like Tenmonkan. Unlike Kumamoto, however, is Kagoshima Bay and Sakurajima, a volcanic island ever-present, looming over the city. Just a few blocks from the station is a ferry port that allows for 24-hour access to the volcano. I made note of this as I walked towards the center of the city because as always, first things first, time to find the meibutsu.
Kagoshima is known for tontoro, ton meaning pork and toro as “fatty part”, think chu-toro tuna (a.k.a. the good stuff). The best delivery method for these fatty pieces of pork, that melt like butter, is on top of tonkotsu ramen. For those of you counting at home, yes, that is the three times in as many days. But when in Kyushu you eat pork fat and noodles. And despite the similarities to the previous prefectures’ this one, this tontoro ramen was easily the best of the trip.
The shop I decided on was called Kagoshima Ramen Tontoro, straight to the point. I went to the honten in Tenmonkan and entered just as it was opening. Even barely open five minutes all the seats were full save for one in the corner at the counter. I dropped my bag and ordered a bowl of their popular ramen. It was rich and beautiful, the pork melted away with each bite. It was topped with fried garlic giving it nice texture and additional flavor. The noodles where thick, much like Kumamoto style and like Hakata style I ordered a helping of kaedama, which I probably shouldn’t have, but I couldn’t let that delicious broth go to waste.
When I exited the shop, again, a line was there that wasn’t before stretching around the corner because when something is worth waiting for, it’s worth waiting for.
Now time for a sweeter meibutsu. Kagoshima is also know for a dessert called shirokuma, which directly translated means polar bear. But in Kagoshima it is a frozen treat with several different fruits and a few beans hidden in the shaved ice made from milk. Looking at it straight down reveals the polar bear’s face with a cherry as its nose. I did not realize this until I had sadly eaten half its face. The shop I went to was called Tenmonkan Mujaki only a few blocks from from Tontoro. It’s a good stop for families or a date.
Very full and wavering between regret and satisfaction for having both Kagoshima meibutsu back to back I head back to the ferry port I passed when I first arrived. A short boat ride across Kagoshima Bay is the volcanic island of Sakurajima. Sakurajima is certainly worthy of its own post, so I leave Kagoshima City here for the day looking forward to what waits on the other side of the bay. I got my ticket and boarded. The city lined between mountains and sea fades as I head towards my next destination.
2 thoughts on “Kagoshima”
I’m gaining weight just looking at the photos and reading their description! What a culinary adventure. Thank you for sharing all your adventures. Next stop Sakurajima.
Thanks for the glossary. I think I’m learning Japanese!
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