Now it’s time to go to Hokkaido, the northernmost island of Japan and largest prefecture. It has a culture all of its own, one of myth, of legend and, of course, delicious food.
I took the recently opened shinkansen that connects the main island of Honshu to Hokkaido under the straight of Tsugaru. From Tokyo to Hakodate on the southern penisula of Hokkaido is a four hour bullet train ride and from there to Sapporo is another three and a half hour express train journey. Next time, I would fly, but for the adventure of it, I had to go up by train. So after such a long journey and high expectations I arrive in the biggest city of Hokkaido, Sapporo.
When I stepped out of the station after a nearly eight hour trek, I found just a city. I realized I became so used to taking a train journey across Japan and instantly being charmed by character. And it made me realize how lucky I have been in nearly all of my previous trips. But, OK, maybe it is a place that is more than it appears at first. To really get to know somewhere you have to eat what’s famous there. So I tried the first of three meibutsu, miso ramen.
Sapporo Ramen is topped with corn and butter that melts into the already rich broth. I would say miso broth is my least favorite soup base compared with tonkotsu or even a basic shoyu broth, so it would have to do a lot to impress me. It was good, a bit salty, but not the epic, best-ramen-ever I had heard of, but I will admit I may have not gone to the right place.
As the sun went down I went to Mt. Moiwa, a mountain overlooking Sapporo. It is lauded as one of the best night views in Japan. So I hurried up before sunset to stake out my spot with my new tripod. I shivered in the cold waiting for the sun to go down. It was a bit hazy and the wind made having a tripod for a long exposure virtually ineffective. “OK. Let’s redeem this with dinner and call it day,” I thought. I turn around to see a long line for the rope-way that winded up two flights of stairs. I waited.
I hopped on a tram to get back to the city center, Susukino. I knew it was famous for a neon street corner, like its own Shibuya Crossing Jr. I thought about setting up my tripod again, but only just trying it for the first time on a trip that day and not wanting to get in the way I hurried to find a Genghis Khan place, the second meibutsu of this stop.
I found the famous Daruma a small hole-in-the-wall restaurant in a back alley of Susukino. At that time of the night there was already a line. As had worked out so well for me in Kyushu, I knew for the best patience was key. I waited again.
I waited two hours to get a seat. It was a small restaurant with 14 seats at the counter. Seated in front of you is a hot plate resembling a shield, from this the grilled dish gets its name. Genghis Khan consists of grilled lamb, onions and peppers. A piece of lamb fat sits at the top and slowly melts to grease the hot plate steadily as you cook your meat.
It was definitely good, but not sure if it was worth the wait. This was really the first time traveling in Japan that I felt this way. I went back to my hotel, hoping to have better luck for breakfast where I would search out the third and my most anticipated meibutsu of Sapporo, uni. For a fresh bowl of uni on rice may have been perhaps the whole reason I came to Hokkaido.
In the morning I checked out of my hotel and headed to Jogai Market, the fish market of Sapporo.
As far as I could tell Jogai Market was one street with restaurants and shops selling seafood wholesale on either side. Many of these places are famous for donburi dishes with slices of fresh fish, shellfish or glowing orbs of roe placed on top. After walking Jogai Market twice through I picked an eatery that looked good. I opted for nishoku-don or the two color donburi, half and half with uni and ikura.
With this breakfast my spirit restored and if for nothing else, a bowl of soft and creamy uni redeemed Sapporo for me. Uni is wonderful. It has a sweet and subtle flavor of the sea that when fresh melts on the tongue. This was the first of a few times I would be having uni in Hokkaido. It is expensive, but for me, totally worth it.
Before leaving Sapporo I went back to Odori Park to see two famous landmarks, Tokeidai (Sapporo Clock Tower) and Sapporo TV Tower.
Dodging rain drips on the way out, I got a few pictures before leaving by train.
After initial disappointment I am willing to give Sapporo the benefit of the doubt. I do look forward to visiting again and by no means do I discourage anyone from visiting. It just wasn’t the city I had heard it was. It was a good lesson in curbing anticipation when traveling. You never know what to expect, but at the very least search for a meibutsu (or three) and let the place speak to you and let it tell you what it’s all about.