Hakodate is located on the southern peninsula of Hokkaido and the terminal point for the new shinkansen that connects Hokkaido with Honshu. I had changed here the other day and worked my way back down after a couple of nights in Sapporo and Otaru. My plan was to return to Honshu via ferry from Hakodate the following day. Before then I had a couple of meibutsu to find and places to see in the city, so I headed to Goryokaku.
Goryokaku is a star-shaped former fort, now a park lined on all sides by cherry blossoms. I was just at the tail end of the sakura season, so I hurried to the park to see what was left. But first, lunch.
When you think Hokkaido ramen, most people would think of miso ramen. I had some the other day in Sapporo, but I am not really a big fan of miso based ramen broth. To me it has the tendency to be too heavy. So I was surprised to find out that Hakodate has its own ramen style and it wasn’t miso. They are actually famous for shio ramen. Shio based ramen soup is typically the lightest of the ramen broths and one I was not so familiar with. When I arrived in Hakodate I looked up shio ramen stands near Goryokaku. To my luck there happened to be one of the best, called Ajisai, right across from the famed park.
While I waited on line, I saw on the window written “When in Hakodate… Shio Ramen. Oh yeah.” Loving the tone and the enthusiasm, I knew I was getting off to a good start in this city. I ordered their shio ramen with chashu and it was fantastic. Maybe it was from being so hungry from my travels, but it was one of the best ramen I’ve had. It was so rich, yet so well balanced that it still felt light. Full, I wanted to order another bowl right there, but decided it would be best not to. I left the ramen shop and crossed the street to go up Goryokaku Tower to get a bird’s-eye view of the park.
On all five sides of the tower were great views of the city from Hakodate Bay in the west, Mt. Hakodate in the south and mountains to the north. Just being up there gave me a real feel for the city. It is a quaint little harbor town with Mt. Hakodate as the southern point of a peninsula with the city sandwiched by water on either side it. On the opposite side of the tower is the former Goryokaku Fortress, originally constructed in 1855 and reopened as a park in 1914. Looking below I could see some people getting in some late hanami from under the cherry blossom trees.
I decided to head down there and check out the park for myself.
There are series of stone walls that can be entered, or climbed for a better view. Surrounding the park on all sides is a very angular moat which tourists can enjoy by boat. In the center of the park is Hakodate Bugyosho, a former government building that had been demolished, but now restored. It would make a well protected center of government, but now it welcomes tourists with a chance to learn a little local history.
I moved up, down and over the walls until I made my way all through the park. Most of the blossoms were just past full bloom and starting to fall. Pink petals floated on the surface of the moat. On my way towards back to the entrance of the park I did find a few spots still mostly full.
Hakodate made a statement when I first arrived. Goryokaku is a worthwhile stop in a really cool city. I imagine it must be beautiful in the other seasons as well. It is a place I would be happy to go back to and walk through again.
After the great ramen, a view from the tower and a stroll through a park I was already impressed, and now eagerly excited for what Hakodate had to offer next. My plan from there was to go check-in, drop off what I didn’t need and take the ropeway up to the top of Mt. Hakodate with my tripod and wait for the sun to go down.
One thought on “Goryokaku in Hakodate, Hokkaido”
It sounds like a fascinating city. The ramen looked delicious!!
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