Kyoto, the Leftovers

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After a few weeks of Kyoto photos, including a whole post just on the station, I realized I still had so much more to share. As this truly special city will do when visited in person, it kept me lingering on it just a little bit longer.

From the station there is the roof of a massive temple poking up from behind Kyoto Tower. That temple is Higashi Hongan-ji. It is less than a five minute walk from the station and as stunningly breathtaking as it is in size it is the high attention to detail of its roof, doors and surrounding grounds that will draw you in a little closer.

As I mentioned in my last post, visiting this temple was really just a quick stop on the way to somewhere else. Kyoto is really special for this reason because sometimes it seems the temples themselves will decide which ones you should stop and marvel at.

Speaking of marveling at temples, here are a few shots of Ginkaku-ji that I couldn’t quite fit in last week’s post, only because I just had too many I wanted to share.

It’s the attention to detail that invites you to stop and take it all in.

One of my favorite parts of Ginkaku-ji, and particularly at that time of the morning, was the moss garden. The moss glowed vibrantly. Shadows ran between the trees and bamboo to give a beautiful fairy-tale like feel.

Kyoto is far from an overrated travel destination. It is essential for any traveler visiting Japan. Even I have barely scratched the surface so far. I know it will be a place that I will return to again and again. It’s the perfect place to visit with a camera and no plan. You will find beauty, history and magic everywhere you go.

Next week, we leave the west and travel north.

Ginkaku-ji in Kyoto

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There are many temples and shrines in Kyoto, so many so it’s hard to choose which to go to and easy to get “templed-out,” where you go to so many temples and shrines in a short period they all start to blur together. Even still, some massive temples can sneak up on you like Higashi Hongan-ji (below) on the way to somewhere else.

And then there is Ginkaku-ji, the Silver Pavilion, which I only knew it as the silver counterpart to the Golden Pavilion, or Kinkaku-ji, in the north. I had been to Kinkaku-ji many years earlier when I first visited Kyoto, though it was beautiful, I remember crowds of tourists and I really didn’t spend much time there at all. Part of me was expecting more of the same from the silver counterpart, but I was happily wrong.

Entering the Zen temple’s grounds leads to a serene garden with reflective ponds, vibrant green moss, a perfectly coiffed sand garden and then the “silver” temple itself.

Now you may be thinking, “it doesn’t really look silver to me,” and your eyes are not deceiving you and you don’t need to adjust your monitor or smartphone screen settings. It is not silver. As the story goes, it was supposed to be covered in silver leaf, just as Kinkaku-ji was covered in gold leaf, but was never finished. Though, even this seems unclear as there are differing accounts that note financial trouble leaving it unfinished and some that say that it was never intended to be covered in silver at all, but appeared that way in moonlight or simply named that way only in contrast to Kinkaku-ji. However, despite the unclear name, it’s humble appearance is still breathtaking seated in the middle of this beautifully kept garden.

The Sea of Silver Sand, does live up to its name and is equally as striking as you stop and wonder at the time and dedication required to craft this garden.

Following the paths around the sand garden and in between the pine trees, you will pass over a couple of small slabs of stone that act as foot bridges to get to the other side of still ponds that reveal alternate views of the beautiful garden. Just walking through the garden can ease your mood with each step and put your soul at peace by the time you leave.

Luckily, for those who don’t want to leave so soon, there is a path up a hill within the temple grounds that offers beautiful views of the temple and the city of Kyoto beyond.

At the time we went in the morning, the early sunlight peaking through the trees made the moss gardens glow as if it was designed to be that way each morning. And maybe it was intended to be that way. With such a dedication to aesthetic and natural beauty over the centuries the result must be Ginkaku-ji, where nothing feels out of place. Each refection or shadow cast feels like it has purpose and draws you in to be captivated by.

Feeling the magic of Ginkaku-ji in the morning light, was only capped by the Philosopher’s Walk which conveniently starts (or finishes depending on which way you are heading) right outside of the temple. It is a peaceful, contemplative walk along a canal lined by cherry blossoms.

Japan, when you stop being unbelievably beautiful, I will stop writing about you.

Higashiyama Walk in Kyoto

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When you think of Kyoto, you may consider golden temples, or endless series of orange torii gates at Fushimi-Inari, but if you were to pick the most iconic spot, the spot that most says “this is Kyoto,” it would have to be Kiyomizu-dera. It perches over Kyoto in the Higashiyama district. From the temple you can see the city stretching out below all the way to the mountains in the west. Kawara roofs of temples and shrines poke out here and there from the buildings and the really only visibly tall point is Kyoto Tower to the south.

This temple attracts many visitors, from legions of students on school trips to tourists from overseas. Kiyomizu-dera translates to “Pure Water” Temple, as it was built in 798 on the site of Otawa Waterfall. Today, patrons can line-up to drink from one of three spouts of water depending on their desire; one for health, another for academic success, and the other for love. I worked with a tour guide once who explained that some teenagers go here and believe that if they jump from the 12-meter high porch with an umbrella as a parachute and survive they will find love. She quickly adds to not try this. And, please don’t because you read it here. I don’t want letters.

The surrounding areas of Kiyomizu-dera, like most temples and shrines in Japan, have many gift shops and places to get local snacks. Here, though, are the two very old neighborhoods of Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka which are like taking a step back in time. This is the Kyoto you may imagine, with narrow streets and wood structure buildings. Women in kimono walk through and pose for pictures, tourists line-up for snacks and green tea flavored beverages or ice cream. From Kiyomizu-dera it is a nice little 25~30 minute walk. As we were passing golden light lit up the roofs and wood panels of these old shops.

Passing through Sannenzaka leads to a few more temples and shrines. One is the Great Buddha of Ryozen Kannon. This statue was unveiled in 1955 to commemorate the fallen of both sides of WWII in the pacific, and to promote peace moving forward. It sits at about 80 ft (24 m). Next to it is the entrance of Kodai-ji Temple, which due to late hour we did not go in and decided to end our trek in search of some dinner instead.

Though this is a walk that has been done many times, by many people, it is certainly worth a visit. It is a walk back in time, the mood, the atmosphere fulfill the promise of the traditional Kyoto you would expect. I have done this walk at least three times, but still have missed some temples and shrines. The walk ends with Yasaka Shrine, which I still haven’t been to yet. I am glad that on this particular day the rain from earlier broke and bathed these historic sites in a beautiful light.

Kyoto is a dream. It must be visited, quietly contemplated and breathed in.

Kyoto Station

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I first arrived in Kyoto on Christmas Eve, seven years ago, my first Christmas away from home. At the time I was with a group of friends hopping local trains from where we worked in the mountains of Nagano. Laughing and drinking along the way, by the time we stepped out of the train we were in a very festive mood. After checking in at our hostel, we met a few other fellow travelers and a local hostel staff member dressed as Mario. We toasted to the holiday when the clock turned midnight as if it was New Years and went out all together for karaoke.

The next morning, while everyone was sleeping off hangovers, I wandered out of the hostel alone in search of breakfast. On my way out I greeted the very rough looking staff member, who was now dressed as Luigi. Without much thought my feet instinctively took me back in the direction of Kyoto Station. Outside large glass panels reflect Kyoto Station which sits directly across the street. Inside is a huge open space, on either side large staircases lead into the center of the station. Long escalators line the sides of the stairs leading up to several different levels giving views and reflections of Kyoto beyond. At the top is the Skyway, a cat walk that is free to go up and from which you can see inside and outside of the station.

I will admit, I have probably spent just as much time in Kyoto Station as anywhere else in Kyoto. These pictures on this post are not from my very first time there, but after visiting again. This second time, while waiting out the rain, that same sense of wonder came back to me. Shadows, reflections, symmetry are all around. It is not a bad place to get stuck in for a little bit, especially with a DSLR and a wide angle lens.

Traversing the Skyway from east to west leads directly into the 11th floor of the station building. On the 10th floor is Kyoto Ramen Street (or Kyoto Ramen Koji), which features ramen from all over Japan. I suppose this is not specifically a meibutsu of Kyoto itself, but rather a collection of meibutsu ramen in one location, which is definitely worth a visit especially if you are in need of lunch after just arriving. I decided on a pork-based broth ramen from Tokushima, as I had not been there yet and wanted a heads up of what kind of ramen I should look for when I do eventually go. It is served with a raw egg to be cracked directly into the ramen, the yolk mixing with the rich broth makes it like a savory sauce.

The rain seemed to be letting up a bit as we came out of the station building on the west side of the large staircases. We had to walk up one story of stairs to go down from the very top of the long escalators. That may seem counter-intuitive, but it is totally worth it. I’m declaring it now, Kyoto Station has the best escalators in the world.

After taking a few more shots from some choice spots that act more like trick art than station interior we finally exited the station and headed to our lodging for the evening to check-in and drop our bags. We stayed in a tatami mat room, quite the way to experience the traditional Kyoto.

Kyoto is a truly special place. As soon as you arrive at the ultra-modern station and step out, you can feel the magic and wonder of what lays beyond. You will pass three or four temples on the way to your hotel that will stop you in your tracks. After taking a brief break and lightening our packs we head out to the iconic Kiyomizu-dera.

Okayama

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From Miyajima, we hop on a few local trains and make our way to Kojima, Okayama. From Kojima Station we take a taxi to the sea where I booked a Japanese inn or ryokan for the night. All the rooms face the Seto Inland Sea. What makes it an Inland Sea, you say? Well, it gets this name as it is situated between the main island of Honshu and the smallest of the four major islands, Shikoku. It spans from the the northeastern part of Kyushu to Osaka Bay and has thousands of islands of varying sizes scattered throughout.

We spend one night here and wake up to a beautiful sunrise over the islands dotting the Inland Sea.

After breakfast we catch a commuter train from Kojima back to Okayama City. Outside the station is a statue of Momotaro. There is a Japanese folktale, that originated in Okayama, about an old couple without children who found a baby in a giant peach. They raised the baby as their own and gave him the name Momotaro, momo being the Japanese word for peach. When he grew older he went on a quest to defeat demons on a distant island and a dog, a monkey and a bird joined him on the way. This particular morning a brave pigeon also joined their party.

From the station we head to the big draw of Okayama City, its castle. It’s about a 25 minute walk and pretty much a straight line down the center of the city. There are trams that run throughout the city, but as the weather was nice, we went by foot. We pass Okayama Shrine, it’s little charms like this that make walking through any Japanese city, really, such a treat.

Right next to Okayama Castle is Korakuen. As to not be confused with the park of the same name in Tokyo, you may often see it referred to as Okayama Korakuen. Here we take a break for some matcha and momo flavored soft serve ice cream. Early blossoms are just starting to pop up here and there.

Walking through the park leads to a bridge that goes right to Okayama Castle. Due to its black color it is often called the “Crow Castle”, which Matsumoto Castle in Nagano is also called, I guess Okayama can’t catch a break with original names. It is adorned with both golden fish gargoyles and peaches.

Okayama was a nice little stop in the middle of our trip out west. I recommend it as a nice place to stay for a weekend by the sea. In the city the castle and Japanese garden are worth a visit even as a day trip if you are in the area. But for us, we didn’t stay too long, because our last stop of our four-day trip was waiting only an hour away. At about midday we jumped on a shinkansen to Kyoto.

Miyajima Island

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Itsukushima Island, colloquially know as Miyajima, “shrine island,” is a popular tourist destination and truly special place in Hiroshima prefecture. It is easily accessible by two different ferries; one takes about 10 mins from Miyajima-guchi train station, but if you wake up in Hiroshima City and want a little more scenic journey I recommend taking the ferry from the Peace Memorial Park. On the way you will pass the Genbaku Dome once more, go under bridges of canals that empty into Hiroshima Bay, pass oyster farms, and see misty blue grey island tops poking up from the surface of the Inland Sea.

The ride takes about 45 minutes and the anticipation of seeing the floating O-torii gate builds as the island gets closer.

When first arriving on the island you will notice that there are deer, deer everywhere. They wander around like squirrels would in a city park, waiting for someone to feed them deliberately or unintentionally. They may just steal a map or two from an unsuspecting tourist. The deer know, to really experience a place you must look up and around you and not down to see where you are going. Or maybe they just may be hungry and they will eat paper if not careful.

The real draw to the island is Itsukushima Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that features the famous orange O-torii Gate that at high tide looks as if it floats on the surface of the water. During low tide guests can walk out to the gate from the shore, but wooden boats are available that row shrine patrons out there when the tide is in. In the Shinto religion, which emphasizes the spirits present in nature, the O-torii Gate represents the gate between the physical and spirit worlds.

It is a stunning sight to see in person. Each angle yields new dramatic views that even while seeing it can seem too beautiful to be real. Tourists line up to take group photos, deer pose in the photos too to bring added authenticity.

The gate itself is only one part of the larger Itsukushima Shrine. I loved this shrine and is one of the most unique that I’ve visited in Japan. It feels like a series of docks connected by covered bridges with statues, lanterns, and ceremony rooms.

When in the center of the shrine and looking out, the six pillars of the O-torii Gate appear flat, revealing the typical shape of a torii gate. The ‘O’ of this particular torii gate denotes it as “big.” And it is certainly massive. In the top arch seven tons of stone hold it in place, with no foundation dug into the beach where it sits.

Passing through the shrine and exiting to the other side of the beach is a small resort town with old fashioned gift shops and restaurants. Purveyors sell different souvenirs from open cedar shops with kawara tiled roofs. It’s hard to actually pin down the specific meibutsu here, but there are many vendors selling grilled oyster yaki-onigiri, fried oysters stacked like dango on sticks, and other delicious momiji shaped items. If you are looking for a good omiyage from Miyajima (and Hiroshima in general), I would suggest momiji manju which are Japanese maple leaf shaped pastries filled with red bean paste called anko. We picked up a box of these ourselves.

Before leaving we took one last break at a stone bench sitting across from the gate. Miyajima is a must stop to be sure. It can be crowded as it is very popular, but it is of the most beautiful destinations in Japan. It is like taking a step back in time, the shrine reminding of the simple aesthetic natural beauty between mountain and sea that has existed for centuries.

Hiroshima prefecture is a treasure. After thoroughly enjoying the sights, delicious food and warmth of its locals, we leave on a ferry and move by local train one prefecture over to our next stop, Okayama.

Hiroshima, the Leftovers

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As the sun goes down we leave the Peace Memorial and make our way back towards the center area, Shintenchi, for dinner. After having it already once for lunch we decide to have okonomiyaki again for dinner. It’s always best to have the meibutsu of any place twice, just to make sure it’s really as good as you remember or that the first time wasn’t a fluke. So for dinner we go to Okonomimura, literally “okonomiyaki village”, which features a whole building of floor after floor of okonomiyaki stands.

I asked one of my friends from Hiroshima for her recommendation of okonomiyaki and she told me about a place that her family goes to often called Bun-chan. There a stern-faced, but sweet obaa-chan hunched over the flatiron griddle cooking piles of noodles, folding them into the famous Japanese pancake.

We order a seafood version, a little more like home-cooking compared to the perfectly tucked crepe of the one we had for lunch, but no less delicious. I mentioned to one of the staff that my friend recommended this place just to see if she knew her. This lady went up to the cooking obaa-chan and told her what I said. She responded with an understanding, but unimpressed acknowledging grunt as she laddled more batter onto the pancakes in front of her.

As we paid and left she came up to me with a smile and pointed at my shirt asking what it was. I was wearing a shirt with BB-8 on it, a Star Wars shirt which is pretty typical if it’s my day off. I laughed as I tried to explain it, eventually settling on “a robot.” I thanked her and told her the meal was delicious.

Lit lanterns and a neon sign light the way to a can’t miss spot in the center of the city. After a very full day we go back to our hotel. The next day we would be leaving the city of Hiroshima.

We planned to take a boat to our next stop, but before then we had a little more time for some morning sightseeing, so we stopped by Hiroshima Castle. Early cherry blossoms were blooming around the park in its inner keep.

Hiroshima is a must visit for so many reasons, the food, the people, the history. I look forward to returning again, as I’m sure there is much left I still haven’t seen. Situated on the inner sea of Japan rivers from the center of the city empty out into Hiroshima Bay. From the Peace Memorial is a boat launch, which we went to and boarded for our next destination, an island called Miyajima.

On our way we pass by the Genbaku Dome as it bids us farewell, for now.

Hiroshima Peace Memorial

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After Hiroshima made a warm welcome with its meibutsu, it was time to switch to a more somber tone. Anxious we walk towards the direction of Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. Not only is Hiroshima a very walkable city, but I recommend exploring by foot as it is a beautiful city. On the way to the memorial you will cross a couple of canals, parks and Shin-Tenchi, the central shopping area.

On the Motoyasu River is the hollowed out remains of the Genbaku Dome. It is breathtaking to turn the corner and see it, now surrounded by green. It still stands because it was directly under the hypocenter of the nuclear blast which pushed at it directly down into its foundation instead of knocking it over completely. It is a sign of the city’s resilience after such horrific devastation and hope for the future.

In between the Motoyasu and Ota rivers and right across from the Genbaku Dome is the Peace Memorial Park, which is home to the Memorial Cenotaph, the Children’s Peace Memorial, Peace Bells, the Peace Flame and more all leading up to the Peace Memorial Museum.

The Children’s Peace Memorial is dedicated to the children who died in the disaster and in particular there is the story of Sadako. Sadako Sasaki was a child, only two years old during the bombing, who died of leukemia do to exposure to radiation. As she was sick she worked to fold 1,000 paper origami cranes. As the legend goes those who fold 1,000 cranes will be granted their wish. Her wish was to rid the world of nuclear weapons. She did not complete this before her death in 1955, but since then thousands and thousands of paper cranes have been sent to Hiroshima from all over Japan and the world.

Through the Memorial Cenotaph is the Peace Flame, a fire that will burn until all nuclear weapons are dismantled, so that no other country may suffer the devastation that Hiroshima did. Right behind this is the Memorial Museum which houses artifacts from the infamous day. From diagrams of the blast radius to photos of the aftermath and its survivors to glass bottles, roof tiles melted together and other everyday objects burnt and scarred it is a lot to take in and process. It is a humbling experience that everyone should visit.

After paying our respects, we walked back up towards the Genbaku Dome and found a small cafe that felt like a place you may find by the Seine in Paris. The atmosphere in the area surrounding the memorial is very positive and very welcoming, so it felt appropriate to take a break and take it all in amongst fellow travelers from all over the world. We sat here for a while enjoying the waning afternoon light and enjoyed local steamed oysters.

Oysters, local and fresh steamed in white wine just a block away from the Genbaku Dome. Right next to the cafe on the  wateris the boat launch which takes guests for river rides. There is a ferry that leaves from there and goes directly to Miyajima, which we would be visiting the next day.

By the time we left the riverside cafe the golden light lit the memorial beautifully.

Despite being anxious about visiting the site of such terrible destruction, it resounds with a message of peace. I was really impressed, how the people of Hiroshima and to a larger extent Japan took something so awful and took a stance of we don’t want this to happen to anyone else again. It is a man-made disaster and as such is preventable. It is a harsh and sobering lesson, one that deserves a visit. And seeing the people here, the travelers paying their respects it gives hope that we can work together.

We can work towards peace.

Hiroshima Style Okonomiyaki

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Sometimes a place grabs you. As soon as you exit the gates of its station it screams with character. It invites you in. Welcomes you like an old friend. This was Hiroshima to me.

I can’t lie and say I wasn’t a little apprehensive about visiting. Of course I wanted to visit and felt I had to, really. Now I would say it is a must see place. It is beautiful, it is inspiring, the people are friendly and the food. Oh, the food. There’s no better way to really get to know a city than to try its local delicacies. And in the case of Hiroshima, you don’t have to go far to be introduced to its meibutsu, okonomiyaki.

Okonomiyaki is an experience. Literally it translates to “anything you like grilled.” It’s often called a “Japanese pancake” or “Japanese pizza”, which I guess we will have to settle for until we can make okonomiyaki a word in English. There are actually two schools of okonomiyaki, Osaka style which has its ingredients mixed in a batter and grilled together and there’s Hiroshima style which I will be introducing in this post. Both are delicious, both are made right in front of you at the table with almost the same ingredients, but Hiroshima style okonomiyaki is a high-skill level act.

Across from Hiroshima station is a department store and on the top floor is a floor in the dark populated only by okonomiyaki stands. Paper lanterns light the way to many different restaurants open to the hallways with small red stools lining the outsides of each kitchen. Guests choose a shop that looks good and order their okonomiyaki which is skillfully assembled on the griddle in front of them.

You can choose a couple of variations of meat or seafood, pork being typical. But if you want something really extravagant and local, and c’mon, we are traveling after all, you go for Hiroshima’s other meibutsu, oysters. Local fresh oysters are grilled directly on the hot plate before being tucked away into the center of an okonomiyaki.

Unlike Osaka style okonomiyaki, the ingredients are all grilled separately and then put together as they are cooking. First a crepe is made. Noodles are fried. Cabbage, bean sprouts and green onions are cooked. An egg is cracked directly on the hot metal surface and cooks use the back of a spatula to quickly make a round flat omelet. Between the omelet and the crepe the vegetables, meat (or seafood), and noodles are stacked together and lined up along side their fellow okonomiyaki in various stages. And somehow all of this is carefully tucked into a perfectly round package of savoriness. It is mesmerizing to watch these cooks go through each stage of the process. Once sauced and topped simply with aonori and sesame seeds it is served still on the griddle.

It was fantastic.

Instantly Hiroshima says “Welcome, make yourself comfortable. You are in good hands here.” This city certainly knows how to make an impression and that was just lunch. Already very pleased with Hiroshima, I could’ve gone home right then and not have been disappointed. But there is still more to this city, more to do and experience. So we head out to out to our next destination, the Hiroshima Peace Memorial. Along the way are canals and some quirky shops. OK, Hiroshima, you got me. You have character.

Nakatsu for Lunch

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Last day of my Kyushu adventure. I had to get back to Fukuoka at some point to catch a shinkansen back to Tokyo, but that didn’t mean I couldn’t do a little exploring on the way. I heard about this town in Oita that has been proclaimed as the Mecca of karaage. I would have to check this out and I did need to get lunch. Also, it has a castle. Always check out a castle if you have the opportunity. I decided to go there first.

I checked the map at the station and determined the direction of the castle. Along the way I passed canals lined with bright red fencing. It has a very distinct mix of an old feudal castle town and a small seaside town.

The day started overcast, but lightened up as I walked.

Most of the houses had charcoal grey kawara tiled roofs with cedar walls. It was quiet, almost deserted. I saw no one and the streets were empty. I saw others when I arrived at Nakatsu Shrine, which is conveniently located in the same park area as the castle making quick sightseeing easier.

Light finally made its way out of the clouds and through the trees when I arrived at Nakatsu Castle. It’s a comparatively small Japanese castle, but its view of the sea from the top makes it well worth the small entry fee.

After descending from the top of the castle, I decided to search for the meibutsu of this town, karaage. Karaage is Japanese fried chicken, marinated in a soy based sauce with ginger and garlic then fried until crispy and the meat inside juicy and tender. They are served in bite size pieces and go great with beer. As with any place known for a particular food, there are many places available.

I found one in between the castle and the station that had a good rating. It was closed. The second one on my list seemed good too and was kinda on the way to the station. I entered as the cook was just leaving the door. I asked him if he was closing. He said no and invited me in. I had a seat at the counter and ordered a teishoku of karaage which came with miso soup and pickled vegetables. On the wall was a certificate from the Guinness Book of World Records for the most fried chicken made at one time.

The chicken was as advertised, delicious. A soft crunchy crust, with succulent tender meat and the sauce it was marinated in gave it a nice richness.

I saw a castle and had karaage. Satisfied with my little side quest, I got back on the train towards Fukuoka.

It was the perfect cap for my week in Kyushu. I found friendly people, delicious food, and beautiful sights all along the way as I made my way around the island. I still have two prefectures to go on Kyushu that I couldn’t get to this time, Saga and Nagasaki. But this only leaves me wanting to return and ready for the next adventure.