Shochu is a clear distilled spirit made from sweet potato or barley, unlike sake which is made from rice. I find it to be much harsher than sake and really not too enjoyable at all. But I was willing to try what the locals were drinking. Kyushu is known better for shochu than sake, which would be more common in the north of Japan. This shochu was from Yakushima, an island just south but still part of Kagoshima. As I recall, it was one of the smoother shochu I have had, which is not saying much, but it was a nice surprise. Meibutsu can be potable too.

The group from Miyazaki left, being replaced with a newly married couple and the bride’s parents. The guy was from Kumamoto and was very excited that I had just visited there the day before. The girl and her parents were from Ibusuki which is one of the southernmost points of mainland Japan famous for a beautiful seaside and resorts. The father and son duo left and a local couple took their place. Not before long the empty seat to my right became occupied by a lone business man.

He swaggered in with confidence and took his seat. The yatai staff knew him and almost reactionary served him a glass of shochu. After talking with him for a bit he took off and showed me a wooden amulet he wore around his neck. This was awarded to him after drinking a shochu at all 25 yatai stands. Now all he has to do is show this and get a complimentary shochu whenever and to whichever stall he enters. He explained that the Yataimura was a place for both locals and travelers alike to get together, eat, drink, talk and enjoy themselves. After a few more servings of shochu I could see what he was talking about. Much like Fukuoka, Kagoshima’s yatai offers a place where everyone is welcome, where you can meet new friends interested in your story and where you are going.

I wasn’t staying in the city, but in a small onsen town in between Kagoshima and Miyazaki called Hayato and had to leave to catch my last train there. My friends for the evening were disappointed when I said I had to go. We took a picture together squeezing in to all get in the frame. I rushed off to hop on the express train for the night, purchasing the ticket and making it on the train only a matter of seconds before it departed. I laughed out of breath at the words written on the side of the train “Around the Kyushu.” Exactly what I was doing, and being met with hospitality each step of the way.